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You Asked: Sony A95L vs. Bravia Mark II, and iPhone 17 Air battery life

On today’s You Asked: Should you go with a 77-inch A95L or 65-inch Bravia 8 Mark 2? Will the expected iPhone 17 Air have poor battery life? And, is burn-in still a problem on some of the latest OLED TVs?

Best 55-inch TV

QLED vs OLED Bravia 9 vs Sony A95L Off Angle Zeke Jones / Digital Trends

Peter asks: What is the best TV at 55 inches, OLED or mini-LED?

This could be asking: Is an OLED or mini-LED the better buy at 55 inches or What is the best 55-inch TV, whether it’s OLED or mini-LED?

First, the latter: What’s the best TV, whether it’s an OLED or mini-LED? I’ll lay out an objective answer and let you decide your budget.

From what I’ve seen, the best mini-LED TV is the Sony Bravia 9. It’s also on the pricey side, but if you want the best, that’s it. Otherwise, check out our buying guides for options.

For the best OLED, we start to split hairs at the top between Sony, Samsung, LG, and Panasonic. However, maybe the answer to “Which TV type is better for a 55-inch TV?” will help.

Objectively, in terms of HDR performance and overall picture quality, the better buy is OLED. Something like “starting at a baseline of awesome” rings a bell. We’re talking all the deep blacks and contrast you could want, and since our eyes notice contrast the most, if you put the two side-by-side, the OLED stands out.

If that’s the route you’re going, we also need to talk about price and availability. Sansui shook things up a bit with their release of a 55-inch OLED running Google TV for just $799 in the fall. And they’re expected to release larger sizes this year. That would be the most affordable option and a really good one if you don’t mind the few corners they cut to keep the price down. We’ve got a video that explains a bit more.

A little more expensive would be: LG’s C4 and C5 (the 2024 and 2025 options) and Samsung’s S90D and S90F (also the 2024 and 2025 options). I list options for both years because it’s about this time of year – May – that some of the best deals on the previous year’s models are available. And in most cases, the differences between these upper-tier TVs are minor. So if you can save a few hundred dollars, and maybe even more, that’s probably the better buy.

If you want the best of the best, consider LG’s G4 or G5, Panasonic’s Z95A, or Samsung’s S95D or S95F. Note that these Samsung options have anti-reflection screens, which people have very different opinions on.

When size matters

Sony Bravia 8 Mark II Zeke Jones / Digital Trends

Billy writes: I wanted to add the Sony A95L 77-inch to my home theater, but now I’m hearing about the Sony Bravia 8 Mark 2. I like the 77-inch size and the new Bravia 8 tops out at only 65 inches. Am I OK going with the A95L or will I regret it?

Straight up, I’d go with the 77-inch A95L and never look back. In this case, it sounds like size matters most to you and your home theater needs, and with the Bravia 8 Mark II not meeting that requirement, I think that would be more disappointing than not having the absolute latest TV. Sony’s picture processing is often years ahead of the competition, which means the A95L, despite being a two-year-old model, still delivers when compared to the newer TVs.

Sony A95L Zeke Jones / Digital Trends

In our previous studio, the A95L was the TV that would usually go back on top of the media console when we weren’t filming a review on another, and every time I sat down to watch something, I always said wow.

I think you’ll feel the same way going with the 77-inch version. And to put a bow on Peter’s question … If I had to go with a 55-inch Sony OLED, I’d save $1,300 dollars and go with the A95L instead of the Bravia 8 Mark II.

Better buy: Samsung S95D or LG G4

Digital Trends

Yodito writes: Is the Samsung S95D or LG G4 the better buy? Where I live, the S95D is $300 cheaper than the G4.

This is a great question about a pair of 2024 models that have been put head-to head quite often. In most cases, when choosing between two TVs that are both incredible, I’d go with what saved me the most money – so long as there were no other dealbreakers. But in this case, there may be one in Samsung’s matte coating that reduces reflections. (We did a video comparing that in these two TV’s specifically).

The TLDR: If your TV will be placed somewhere that has a lot of light, potentially causing distracting reflections in the TV, the Samsung will probably suit you best. But if it’s in a darker room, things really come down to personal preference. You can’t go wrong either way.

That leads me into the next pair of questions, which I’ll combine.

Is burn-in still a thing?

An example of screen burn-in on an OLED TV. Note that the visible zebra pattern, known as moire, is caused by taking a photo of a TV screen and is not part of the burn-in. Ian O’Shaughnessy / Digital Trends

Steve writes: I’m concerned about burn-in. Is it still a problem on these TVs?
Emmanuel writes: What about screen burn-in? Is that a thing of the past?

First, I am no burn-in expert, but I do know that year-over-year, as technology improves, burn-in becomes less of a risk. A lot of that is thanks to smart features integrated into OLED TVs. Samsung offers a Pixel Shift setting, which moves the image slightly to keep static images from being displayed in the same part of the screen for long periods of time, which could lead to burn-in. There is also an Adjust Logo Brightness feature.

LG offers similar features in the form of Screen Shift, Logo Luminance Adjustment, and Pixel Refreshment. What’s more, with LG in particular, there is a five-year warranty on the G4 OLED. This covers panel replacement, parts, and labor for the first three years, and then just panel replacement for the final two. It’s a very safe buy.

When my parents recently replaced their living room TV, I was hesitant to recommend an OLED because they watch primarily sports and network news – programming with lots of static elements on the screen. However I did recommend the OLED because it just looks so good. And I was right: Their Samsung S90D is going strong, and every time I talk to them, they tell me how much they love the picture. If they’ve avoided burn-in, I think anyone can.

Next we have some mobile questions.

Bad battery life?

iPhone 17 Air dummy hands on Unbox Therapy / YouTube / Unbox Therapy

@turbodat asks: Should we expect the iPhone 17 Air’s battery life to be atrocious?

The answer: Yes, probably – but it depends on how much you use your phone and what you do when using it. However, it seems even early in the game, Apple is preparing us for short battery life from its thin phone. A report claimed Apple expects the battery to last for a full day for 60–70% of its owners, and that’s down from 80–90% for the iPhone 16 series.

To compensate, Apple is apparently considering reintroducing the MagSafe battery pack to help the phone’s battery push through an entire day. Of course, attaching a battery pack will immediately negate the phone’s big selling point – its thinness – making it all a whole problem entirely of Apple’s own making.

It’s a timely discussion because Samsung is about to launch its own thin phone, the Galaxy S25 Edge, which will give us a better real-world example of how much battery life to expect from a modern, thin phone.

If the battery in a regular phone doesn’t last long enough for you now, it’s extremely unlikely one inside a thinner phone will do any better.

The return of physical keyboards

Clicks

@axiomfinity writes in with a plea: Bring back the mini physical keyboard!

Good news: The physical keyboard has already made a comeback. Take a look at Clicks, the company making physical keyboard cases for a variety of phones, including the iPhone and the Motorola Razr folding phones. The most recent revised model is excellent, with a far more refined typing experience and more modest learning curve. It’s by far the best way to combine a physical keyboard with an up-to-date, no-compromise smartphone.

Desktop experience on the phone

Samsung DeX Nadeem Sarwar / Digital Trends

@anjo1030 writes: Do you have any news on whether they plan to activate full mode on Android (desktop mode), so we can use a phone connected to a keyboard, monitor, and mouse, and work without needing a desktop computer?

There are options for this available today, such as Samsung’s DeX and Motorola’s Ready For features. There’s also news coming out of a version being made by Google for Android called, simply: Desktop Mode. It has been spotted in beta versions of Android 16 and may require a Pixel smartphone to operate, but will allow a connection between a phone and an external monitor, and then display a DeX-style desktop interface controlled by a keyboard and mouse connected to the phone using Bluetooth. Unfortunately, the feature is still a work in progress, and those examining the beta software don’t expect it to be ready – and therefore released – with Android 16.

At the moment, Samsung’s excellent DeX feature is your best way to emulate a desktop experience with your phone.

May 11, 2025
You Asked: State of smartphone design, Slate Truck breakdown, and soundbars under $600

On today’s You Asked: What’s to come with the new Slate Truck and its potential availability? Is it worth the hype? Why does it feel like smartphone design and innovation has stalled recently? And why do directors think that ultra wide 21:9 is a good ratio for movies?

Slate Truck breakdown with John McCann

Some of you have been in touch to ask about the availability of the new Slate Truck. I’ll go through the preorder process in a moment, but first, let’s get everyone up to speed on this newly unveiled EV. What is it? What makes it stand out? And why is it generating so much buzz?

This is being touted as a sub-$20,000 electric truck after government incentives, and you’ll be able to customize it to your heart’s content. It stands out not so much for what it offers, but for what it doesn’t offer as standard. There’s just one trim and one paint color. No touchscreen, no stereo, no Bluetooth, no electric windows.

Slate

So, what do you get? There are two seats. There’s a five-meter bed, good for payloads up to 1,400 pounds. There’s AC, steel wheels, and hand-cranked windows, plus all the standard driver safety assists you’d expect from a modern vehicle. There’s a rear-mounted electric motor, a roomy frunk, and a battery rated for about 150 miles, according to Slate.

That isn’t great in the world of EV range, but a larger battery will be available to push that figure up to a more reasonable 240 miles. That bigger battery is just one of over 100 add-ons Slate is making available. These will be offered not just at the point of purchase but also at any time during your ownership, allowing you to swap and upgrade as your needs evolve.

Want to add a splash of color? Check out the vast range of vinyl wraps you can apply and remove from the truck at will. There’s also an SUV upgrade kit that converts your two-seater truck into a five-seater car. Inside, infotainment is strictly “bring your own device.” There’s no touchscreen, no built-in CarPlay, not even a stereo. Instead, you get a universal phone mount and a few USB ports. You can also add holders for a tablet if you want a bigger display, and a Bluetooth speaker if you want to listen to music while out for a drive.

Slate

All of this is genuinely intriguing. Slate is doing something very different from what traditional carmakers offer. And for anyone into DIY car customization and looking for a low-cost entry into the EV world, the Slate Truck is worth considering. The ability to adapt your truck as your life changes is a compelling hook, and it will be fascinating to see how this plays out.

You can reserve your Slate Truck online now for just $50 down. That amount is fully refundable if you change your mind. As for when the truck will start showing up in driveways, there’s no firm date yet, but it is expected to arrive sometime next year.

Mobile tech talk with Gareth Beavis

Question from Christopher John: Hi team, I am weighing my options between Samsung Ultra Tab 10 vs Red Magic Tablet for both productivity and gaming entertainment. Which one will give me value for my money? Thanks. Watching your channel from Trinidad.

This is a great question because tablets right now are serving both gaming and productivity needs really well. Let’s start with the Galaxy Tab S10 Ultra. First off, it’s a very expensive device—over $1,000, and sometimes even $1,200—but it comes with some strong productivity features.

One thing I’ve always been impressed with is Samsung DeX. In the early days, DeX didn’t work very well, but it has improved a lot. You can cast to multiple screens, multitask with multi-windows, and the included S Pen is a real bonus. Unlike the Apple Pencil, which is sold separately, it comes in the box. You can sketch, apply filters, and experiment with artistic styles.

The performance is solid. It has a MediaTek Dimensity chipset, which did not slow things down in our benchmarks. The huge 14-inch screen is not the most portable, but it offers plenty of space for multitasking and sketching.

If you’re watching sports or working with multiple windows, it performs well. For word processing, background tasks, or even video editing, it’s a powerful device.

Now, if you look at the ZTE, it is clearly a gaming-first device. It has thermal cooling, low screen latency, and a high refresh rate, which makes inputs very responsive. You can cast it to a larger screen, which helps since its LCD display doesn’t have the inky blacks or clarity of Samsung’s AMOLED.

14128 Image used with permission by copyright holder

But if you’re not concerned about that, or you plan to cast anyway, the ZTE works great as a mobile console. It’s fast, has great aesthetics, and is much more affordable.

In terms of value for money, I’d say the ZTE Red Magic Nova comes out ahead. But it’s important to read the reviews, as these two devices go in very different directions. If you need S Pen productivity, the Samsung is the better choice, though it comes at a higher price. If you prioritize gaming and can live with more limited productivity, the ZTE is a solid pick.

Question from from @Talex-jb8bp: What are you most excited about in new phones?

This one’s easy. A few years ago, I got a bit bored with phones. They all started to look and feel similar—rectangular blocks with flat screens, doing essentially the same things. You couldn’t really buy a bad phone anymore. That made reviews a bit dull compared to the early days when we had clear one-star and five-star devices.

But what still excites me? Foldables.

Yes, they’ve been around a while, but I’ve followed rollable and foldable displays even before becoming a tech journalist. And only now do I feel like we’re reaching an exciting turning point, especially with trifold devices.

Huawei showed us a three-screen fold-out device. That’s where things start to get really interesting. If a smartphone can truly turn into a tablet, we’re crossing into a sci-fi future. Only now it’s real.

There are still ways to differentiate these devices. One of the things I’m most excited about is foldable phones. That might sound obvious, since we’ve had them for a while, but I’ve been following this space even before I became a tech journalist. I was looking at rollable displays in more of a B2B context, and the excitement around them has been alive for 20 years.

I think we’ve finally, and I mean finally, gotten to the point where foldable phones are actually becoming exciting. That’s largely because of the trifold devices that are emerging. Huawei introduced a model last year with three screens folding out. That’s where things get exciting for me. If you can truly turn a smartphone into a tablet, that’s when we enter the next stage. It once felt like science fiction, but now it is becoming real.

Galaxy Flex G is reportedly the inspiration for Samsung’s tri-fold phone. Samsung

Of course, there are still things that need to improve.

The creases—everyone says they’re getting better—but they’re still not good enough for me. They need to disappear completely. That way, it feels like you’re going from a Galaxy S25 to a Galaxy Tab seamlessly. That would be amazing.

And the potential to go from one small, powerful smartphone, which on its own is already decent, to something that folds out into a whole other class of device? That’s where it gets really exciting.

Based on questions from our Instagram community: Has smartphone design innovation stalled?

Now, this comes in the context of the iPhone 17, which is being rumored as looking very much like the Google Pixel. I’d say yes—I think smartphone innovation, especially when it comes to design, has stalled. I’d say around five or six years ago, things started to become quite similar.

I’m not saying it’s completely identikit. You can still see some interesting ideas, especially from some of the Chinese smartphone manufacturers doing clever things with camera arrays that give a real visual identity. And those do look very different. But Samsung, Apple, and Google are all doing more or less the same thing. So yeah, I think things are starting to get quite homogenized.

That’s not to say they’re exactly the same. If you line them up, you can definitely tell which is which. But I think the days of owning a smartphone just because of how it looked—I’m talking about the HTC era, or the early iPhone days, and even some of those early Samsung and LG phones—those were iconic, and they looked very different.

That has changed. I think the homogenized rectangle is really here to stay.

iPhone 17 Air dummy leak Unbox Therapy / YouTube / Unbox Therapy

Is that a problem? I don’t think so. I’m actually quite excited about the new trend toward thinner devices. If the iPhone 17 turns out to be as slim as rumored, I think it’ll be really cool. Holding a thin phone just feels tangibly different from the slightly thicker ones we’ve gotten used to. Even though none of them are thick by old standards, that extra bit of slimness is noticeable.

We’re seeing this trend with Samsung as well, and multiple Chinese brands are pushing for it too. I think that’s really cool.

Home entertainment questions with Chris Hagan

Question from @Jeff1960G: What would be a good soundbar for an 18×15 bedroom? I am new to the soundbar experience and want a good sound but under $600. Thank you.

Jeff, I feel you—especially on the under-$600 part. Fortunately, soundbars not only come in a variety of shapes with an even larger variety of features, but they’re also not as expensive as you might think and still pack a ton of quality.

To keep things simple, I’m going to give you a few options since I don’t know your exact room setup. Hopefully, these spark some ideas you may not have considered.

Bose

The first is the Bose Smart Soundbar, and it just straight-up delivers. It checks every box I’d want in a bedroom: not too large, should fit easily under most TVs, and of course, it’s Bose—it brings the audio fidelity the brand is known for. It supports Dolby Atmos and uses their TrueSpace technology, which adds an immersive layer to whatever content you’re watching.

But most importantly, it handles what many people care about most: dialogue. There’s an AI dialogue mode that clears up those tough-to-hear conversations without overpowering or degrading the rest of the audio. That’s especially helpful if, for example, your bed is on the opposite wall from the TV or soundbar, and you still want to hear every detail of your favorite show. And it’s $500, so it fits your budget with a bit of room to spare.

Now, if you’re looking to save a bit more and have the setup to support it, the Polk MagniFi Mini AX retails for $500—but at the time of publishing this video, it’s on sale for $400. The soundbar is very compact, supports both Dolby Atmos and DTS audio, and features Polk’s VoiceAdjust, which enhances dialogue clarity. The standout feature? It comes with a wireless subwoofer. So if you’re after extra bass to give your bedroom more of a home theater feel, this could be the one.

Simon Cohen / Digital Trends

Personally, I don’t know if I’d want a subwoofer in that space—but hey, it might be fun.

If you’re leaning toward something a bit more traditional, I’ll also throw in the Klipsch Flexus Core 300. It’s similarly priced—retailing for $500 and currently on sale for $400. It delivers big sound as an all-in-one unit and, like the others, supports Dolby Atmos. Klipsch highlights its dedicated horn-loaded tweeter, which enhances vocal clarity. Clearly, dialogue is a key focus.

Hope that helps, Jeff. Let us know which one you end up choosing.

Question from @andyhoughton1068: What are your thoughts on streaming boxes? And what is the best streaming box to buy?

Thanks for this question, Andy. This is another one that comes with more options than you probably care to hear me list, but I’ll give you my top three.

Let’s start with your first question: my thoughts on streaming boxes. In short, they’re awesome—especially when configured correctly. They’re pretty plug-and-play, but if you’re curious about the deeper settings, we have lots of videos and guides on the channel and DigitalTrends.com that dive into the details.

Streaming boxes are especially helpful when you have a preferred operating system like Google TV, Apple TV, or Amazon Fire TV. They let you choose the experience you want, rather than relying on the built-in software from your TV. And if it’s not a newer or higher-end TV, the streaming box might actually run faster than your TV’s OS.

Plus, some TVs let you customize which HDMI input loads when the TV turns on. That way, with your preferred streaming box, you can skip the TV’s native interface entirely if you want.

My top pick would be the Google TV streamer—or for a bit less, the Google Chromecast with Google TV—mainly because of how easy it is to set up and use. One account houses your apps, manages logins, and keeps things seamless. The layout is clean and works well with a wide variety of apps.

The streamer is faster and smoother than the Chromecast when it comes to navigation, and it offers more storage. It’s a great main-room setup, which is why most people tend to prefer it over the Chromecast.

With Chromecast put out to pasture, the Onn 4K Pro is the closest competition to Google TV Streamer. Phil Nickinson / Digital Trends

Next up, having used it for a few years myself, I’m also a fan of Roku’s lineup. And as a matter of fact, they just released some new products. The new Streaming Stick Plus is their top option for 4K streaming and only builds on what’s already been a reliable choice for performance and ease of use. Also worth noting: it’s just $40.

That said, both the Google and Roku options I mentioned can include ads on the home screen. Welcome to 2025. So if that bothers you, the Apple TV 4K is worth considering. Just keep in mind that a new Apple TV is expected sometime in 2025. If you lean that way, it’s worth checking to make sure you’re getting the latest tech—especially if you’re buying near the end of the current model’s life cycle.

Question from @6cmcnc6: Remember when we all use to complain about black bars? Why do director think 21:9 is a good aspect ratio now? No one’s buying ultra wide monitors just to watch movies.

Well, my friend, I see your logic. But riddle me this, Batman: do you think directors are making movies for theaters or for home viewing on God-knows-what device?

Spoiler alert: it’s not the latter. Many directors and cinematographers have a specific vision for how their movie should be seen—on the big screen, in a theater. Especially now, with so many extravagant screen options, movies can play better and feel more immersive in a wide format. Or sometimes, that’s just how the creators intended the film to be presented.

Take a recent absolute masterpiece like Sinners, for example. Director Ryan Coogler and director of photography Autumn Durald Arkapaw shot it on film to be shown in ultrawide, tall IMAX, and regular formats, among others. They even took the time to show how each version offers a unique viewing experience. It’s really cool to hear him explain it, if you haven’t already.

Other cinematic creators shoot their films based on how they want them to look on the big screen, and once those films hit streaming services, everyone else just has to deal with it unless it’s been specifically adapted. Often, it’s out of these creators’ hands when it comes to how their work is delivered across the wide variety of streaming boxes, TVs, monitors, and other devices that all support different formats.

Speaking of which: for shows and movies that are created specifically for streaming—especially those with big budgets from Netflix, Disney+, Prime, and Max—much of that content is shot with the expectation that it will be viewed on a standard 16:9 TV. So it makes sense to use a 1.77 or 1.78:1 ratio, and it often looks phenomenal.

These are premium productions, so when movies use an ultrawide aspect ratio for theatrical release, it’s one more way to make them stand out. And to answer your question directly: directors have long favored the 21:9 format—known in film as 2.35:1 or 2.40:1.

You can check IMDb for a long list of movies shot this way, including The Matrix trilogy, Forrest Gump, Indiana Jones, the Alien and Die Hard franchises—the list goes on.

May 4, 2025
You Asked: Nintendo Switch 2, Best Android Phones, and OLED Upgrades

On today’s You Asked: What’s up with the Nintendo Switch 2? We answer some of your burning questions as preorders are officially underway. In terms of mobile and phone tech, what Android comes most recommended by our Digital Trends expert, and is upgrading your OLED TV worth it for the latest anti-reflective coating?

Nintendo Switch 2 Questions with Giovanni Colantonio

A couple of weeks ago, we posted our first hands-on impressions of the Nintendo Switch 2. I got to attend the first-ever hands-on event for the console, played about 11 games, and now I’m here to answer your biggest questions.

Giovanni Colantonio / Digital Trends

Question from @kennethcheung4938: We haven’t seen much of the new OS yet—is it similar to the original Switch OS, or is it a full overhaul? If it’s the latter, will we still be able to play games from outside our native region? For example, if I have a U.S. Switch, can I buy physical game cartridges in Japan and still play them in English?

Great questions. Happy to answer. First off, the OS seems to be pretty much identical. At the preview event, we weren’t handed a Switch to mess around with freely. These were structured demos where you jumped straight into a game—so no real opportunity to explore the menu.

That said, I did catch a few glimpses of the UI during the event. For example, if someone had to pair a controller, the familiar white “pairing your controller” box popped up. I also saw the Nintendo Switch Online GameCube UI, and it looked exactly the same as before.

Since the event, I’ve seen a few videos and commercials showing snippets of the UI, and yeah—basically the same. The home screen is still that white or black background with a single horizontal row of apps. You scroll through them. That’s it.

The one thing that’s getting a slight redesign is the Nintendo Online section—though, honestly, I bet many of you haven’t used it much. It’s a small refresh, but nothing major.

I’ve always wanted more customization—more dynamic themes like we had on the 3DS. I had an Animal Crossing one, it was fully decked out. Looks like we’re not getting that level of customization here. I hope that changes.

It seems Nintendo’s goal is to keep the Switch 2 feeling like a direct continuation of the original Switch. I think that’s a bit of a missed opportunity, but at least it’ll feel familiar.

As for region locking—no, the Switch 2 is not region-locked, as far as we know. You can play a Japanese game on a North American Switch.

The one exception is a special model sold in Japan. It’s cheaper but region-locked to Japanese games. Nintendo probably did that to boost local sales. The price difference in the U.S. is likely tied to geopolitical tariffs, which many of us are familiar with by now.

So, if you want to learn Japanese and import a cheaper model—go for it! Otherwise, the standard Switch 2 remains region-free.

Nintendo

Question from @jarathen1625:How comfortable did you find the Switch, and how does that compare to the Switch 2? It’s my one worry, that many players will require a grip to make it comfortable yet again.

This is a good one. Personally, I don’t mind the comfort of the original Switch. I wouldn’t call it “comfortable,” but it’s not terribly uncomfortable either—it’s just kind of flat. You’re holding a flat brick, but it’s not super heavy and the weight is well-balanced.

Unlike the Steam Deck, which I joke feels like holding a cat by its armpits—very top-heavy—the Switch is more balanced, so you can hold it in the middle without strain.

Switch 2? Same design philosophy. Not significantly more comfortable. If you found the original uncomfortable, you’ll probably want a third-party grip—maybe from Hori or Dbrand. That said, you can still get the Pro Controller, which I demoed, and it felt great. It’s nearly identical to the current one, but now includes a C button.

I also tried the updated Joy-Con grip, which feels about the same as the old one. I find it fine—others might disagree.

As for how the Switch 2 feels in-hand—it’s heftier. Not heavier, just more solid. Like holding an Apple tablet. Doesn’t affect comfort much, but it might change how you perceive it.

The Joy-Cons have been tweaked for better comfort—larger joysticks, bigger SL and SR buttons. So there are some quality-of-life improvements, just not a huge leap in ergonomics. Keep your expectations in check.

Giovanni Colantonio / Digital Trends

Question from @viciousviolet3783: Have we heard anything more about Call Of Duty coming to Nintendo Switch 2?

Honestly, I was surprised Call of Duty wasn’t part of that recent Direct. But Xbox has to bring it to Switch—they promised it in their FTC case. It’s legally documented.

Question from @kennethcheung4938: 3rd Party Games Compatibility: With the MS <> Activision merger last year and MS promising to bring Xbox games to Nintendo, can the Switch 2 have enough hardware power to run those Xbox games and provide a comparable experience?

Now, performance? Keep your expectations low. The Switch 2 is not an Xbox Series X or PS5. It’s closer to a Steam Deck. It’ll impress more in handheld mode than docked.

That said, DLSS (AI upscaling) is a game-changer. Games like Cyberpunk 2077 use it, and it really helps clean up visuals. The Nvidia chip also supports ray tracing—another plus. Still, this console won’t match what Xbox and PlayStation are doing.

I don’t expect Hellblade 2 or Starfield to run great on it. But I was impressed seeing third-party games like Split/Second, Cyberpunk, and Street Fighter 6 running smoothly and looking clean.

DLSS could help clean up the fuzzy edges I saw in games like Split/Second. Just don’t expect 120 fps Call of Duty—we’re probably looking at 30 fps, with some upscaling when docked.

Mobile Tech Questions with Andy Boxall

Now, let’s switch gears to mobile tech with Digital Trends senior mobile writer Andy Boxall.

Andy Boxall / Digital Trends

Question from @miltonjr2004: What Android phone would you recommend?

Great question—and since we don’t have a specific budget to work with, I’m going to recommend two phones.

First up is the OnePlus 13. It has a classy yet durable design, the latest Qualcomm Snapdragon 8 Elite processor, a battery that easily lasts a couple of days, super-fast charging, and a brilliant camera with some fun modes, like Hasselblad XPan. At $900, it’s a lot less expensive than phones like the Galaxy S25 Ultra—and it’s currently my top Android pick. I gave it a nine out of 10 in my review.

If you’re looking for something more affordable, the Google Pixel 9a is a fantastic option at just $500. I think the flat rear panel looks great, the software is super easy to use, and it’s very well designed. The battery lasts a couple of days, and while the camera is solid, the photos do benefit from a little editing.

I also gave the Pixel 9A a nine out of 10 in my review, and I’m still using it as my daily phone. I think you’ll be happy with either the OnePlus 13 or the Pixel 9A.

Nirave Gondhia / Digital Trends

Question from @lowridinpacker: Which foldable phone will be the one to buy this year? Buy a P9P Fold or OnePlus Open now or maybe the Z Fold 7 or Pixel 10 Pro Fold in August? Price vs usability and which is best for different use cases.

Let’s start with the one I wouldn’t recommend: the OnePlus Open. It launched at the end of 2023 and only saw minor updates in late 2024. There’s no successor coming this year, and while it’s still a good phone, I don’t recommend buying a 2023 model in 2025.

The Pixel 9 Pro Fold, on the other hand, is excellent—and it’s actually my favorite Pixel 9-series phone. It’s still relatively new, and while the $1,800 price tag stings, it’s absolutely worth considering. If you need a phone right now and want a foldable, go for it—I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

As for the Pixel 10 Pro Fold and Galaxy Z Fold 7, it’s still early, and there aren’t a lot of solid rumors to go on yet. Most speculation suggests they won’t be dramatically different from the current models.

So, if you don’t need a new phone today, there’s no harm in waiting another six months to see what they bring. But if you’re hoping for a price drop on current foldables, don’t count on it—foldables rarely go on deep discount.

If you’re after a phone that can do everything—multitasking, content watching, productivity—the Pixel 9 Pro Fold is my pick. Get it, and enjoy it.

Nadeem Sarwar / Digital Trends

Question from @Mooooooof: At what percentage battery health is reasonable to replace the battery in your phone?

This one’s interesting because I think it’s less about numbers and more about experience. If your phone still meets your daily needs, there’s no reason to worry about the battery health percentage. Once it becomes inconvenient or frustrating, that’s the time to consider a replacement.

Also, if you’re asking this, I’m going to assume you want to hang onto your phone for a while. If that’s the case, keep an eye on devices like the HMD Skyline—it’s easily repairable at home, and iFixit sells official parts, including batteries.

There’s something really satisfying about maintaining your phone like this—and it’s more affordable in the long run.

OLED Upgrade for Better Anti-Glare with Chris Hagan

Lastly, we have a question about OLED TV reflections.

Doug Murray / Digital Trends

Question from Luuk: I currently have an LG CX OLED in my house—an awesome TV—but the screen is literally a mirror. I have a window behind the viewing position, and especially in the summer, I can see everything behind me on the TV, but not any darker images. I’m considering a new OLED since I’m a huge fan of the picture quality, but I was wondering how much the anti-reflective coating has improved compared to my CX. I might consider other brands, although Sony doesn’t offer the same price-to-quality value as LG, and Samsung lacks Dolby Vision support.

Great question, Luke. Anti-reflective coatings have definitely improved year over year, especially on high-end OLEDs. And having seen some of the newest sets in person—like the LG G5 and C5—I can confirm they look incredible.

However, it sounds like your room gets a lot of light. In that case, I’d actually steer you toward Samsung’s latest lineup. They introduced their advanced anti-glare tech back in 2020 on the flagship QN95 series, and we’ve got a full breakdown in past videos on the channel.

In 2025, that same tech has made its way into both OLED and Mini LED models. So you’ve got options.

If OLED is a must and you want to combat glare, the Samsung S95F is your best bet. But don’t sleep on the QN90F, Samsung’s top-tier Quantum Dot Mini LED TV. Not only does it have that same anti-glare technology—it also gets brighter than the S95F.

So if daytime glare is a real issue and you watch a lot during the day, the QN90F might actually be the better choice.

Now, about Dolby Vision: yes, Samsung still doesn’t support it. But whether or not you’ll notice depends on how dialed in your eyes are. I’ve been using the QN90C, their 2023 model, for the past year and a half—and I’ve watched everything from cable and sports to HDR movies and streaming content. HDR10 and HDR10+ still offer plenty of wow factor.

So in your case, I think solving the reflection issue will have the bigger impact on your viewing experience than Dolby Vision support.

April 27, 2025
You Asked: Mysterious lines and clicking fixes, plus outdoor TV tips

On today’s You Asked: Who cares about TV processing when you have an Apple TV? Where is the Hisense Saturn – that Theater Quad competitor – we saw at CES? What’s the deal with outdoor TVs? And, the Sony TV click mystery has been solved, while a new LG OLED mystery emerges …

Processing prowess: Does it really matter?

Jen Karner / Digital Trends

Ro’eh writes: When deciding what TV to buy, and particularly when considering Samsung’s great options vs. LG and Sony, should I care about processing capabilities at all if I have an Apple TV 4K that already upscales and processes the image on its own? Can I just ignore that and focus on the other differentiators?

Great question. The short answer is: a TV’s processing capabilities always matters when making a purchase consideration, even if the only source that will ever touch that screen is an Apple TV.

An Apple TV does do some upscaling if you let it, and it performs a tiny bit of image clean-up, mostly through noise reduction. However, there’s a lot more to image processing than what the Apple TV can do. The Apple TV will provide the video signal with a bunch of instructions for your TV to handle, but how well the TV handles all that information and then executes it is entirely on the TV. The TV is always doing the heavy lifting when it comes to getting the picture on your screen to look its best. I’m not talking about enhancements like “AI Picture this” or “AI detail that.” I’m talking about the basics – the fundamentals involved in making a great TV look great and an excellent TV look excellent.

If, however, a TV has poor upscaling chops, it is possible the Apple TV can do a better job, and delivering that pixel-to-pixel signal information can help that TV look a bit better. That’s about the extent of help the Apple TV can be. This is also true for the Nvidia Shield, by the way.

Remember: With high-end TVs, it’s better to let the TV handle the noise reduction and upscaling.

Best outdoor TV options

Samsung

Alan writes: I am considering adding a television to a covered outdoor living space and would love to see a review of outdoor capable TV models. I am definitely interested in picture quality as I already have a Sony A95J and a Sony A95K inside my home, but I understand that the environment outside is much harsher than it is inside. I have only started to try to find some outdoor rated TV models and quickly discovered manufacturers that I have never heard of. Can you offer any suggestions?

First, true story: Some of my earlier videos, where I was really trying to have some fun on YouTube, were for outdoor TVs made by Sunbrite – this was 10 or 11 years ago. In one video, I was in my backyard throwing all kinds of stuff, including raw meat, at the TV to see how well it held up to the elements. In another, we filmed poolside at my friend’s house with his family and mine. Those were a lot of fun.

Here’s the thing about “outdoor” TVs: The design priorities are radically different than for indoor TVs. First and foremost, they need to be weather resistant – that means UV-resistant and water-resistant if not waterproof – and Sunbrite showed it was very capable in these areas.

Outdoor TVs also need to be rugged. Outside, things are often flying around all over the place. The last thing you need is a wayward flying object to whack your TV and destroy the screen.

Also, an outdoor TV needs to be bright because even in indirect sunlight, it’s super easy to get a washed-out picture. Unfortunately, getting a super-bright TV means some compromise on aspects like color accuracy and contrast. The color should look good in sunny conditions (and you should just be happy to see the screen, never mind contrast).

That does not, however, mean that other elements that contribute to great picture quality should be abandoned. I like to see solid upscaling and great noise reduction, and while most outdoor TV brands are around the same level, Samsung rises above the rest in my experience. (With that said, I haven’t looked closely at the state of outdoor TVs for about two and a half years, but I will be getting myself an update at the CEDIA show this year). Meanwhile, I think Samsung’s The Terrace is a killer outdoor TV.

Another thing about outdoor TVs: They are often preposterously expensive. They are speciality devices and far less popular than indoor TVs, so fewer people purchase them. To make it in the outdoor TV biz, you have to charge a premium (and why shouldn’t they?). Many folks getting outdoor TVs have enough disposable income to afford to upkeep a pool, an outdoor kitchen, or an RV, right?

Prepare for sticker shock when you start looking (if you haven’t already). As for brands, I have personal experience with Sunbrite and Samsung. I have not checked Sylvox or Furrion. Also think Element makes an outdoor TV with Roku built-in?

I’ll close with this: Most outdoor TVs aren’t designed to appease videophiles. They are pretty stock from an overseas factory, badged with a brand name. With that said, I hear Sylvox is doing a great job, and I know Sunbrite and Samsung are, too.

No sound – just “crunch”

Phil Nickinson / Digital Trends

Barry writes: I’ve recently experienced a problem with my sound via HDMI ARC from an LG TV to a Cambridge Audio TV base. The sound for normal (digital) content comes through, but when I switch to apps (Disney+, YouTube, etc), the sound disappears with a loud “crunch” sound. Is this a problem with the ARC speaker or the TV?

That sounds like the TV’s fault to me. It could be something with the speaker’s digital audio decoder, but I think there’s something going on with the signal as it comes from the TV. The speaker might not be able to handle the signal type the TV is trying to send. (What I don’t understand is why this is suddenly a problem now.)

Go into the TV’s digital audio output settings and see if you can force the TV to output PCM. Hopefully that solves the problem.

Review for Hisense Saturn?

Hisense

Andrew G writes: Will you be reviewing the Hisense Saturn? I’ve been considering purchasing a secondhand Sony HTA9 with SW5 setup for a while (the Quad is just too much) and I’m curious how the Saturn would perform compared to the Sony setup.

If the Hisense Saturn ever comes out, you can bet I’ll be reviewing it. Right now, I’m a little worried we won’t see it in 2025. It’s not uncommon for us to see stuff at CES that never materializes or doesn’t show up for a year or two longer. That might be the case with the Hisense Saturn? (I haven’t heard a peep about it since then, and I was just at a Hisense event – I wish I’d thought to ask about it then.)

Meanwhile, check out my thoughts on Hisense’s 2025 TV lineup.

Mysterious moving line

You Asked viewer Rob D.

Rob D. writes: I purchased a LG G2 a few years ago. After a year or so. it started developing a line down the entire length of the panel. First there was a line on the left side; now it has shifted to the right. The line only appears against a certain background: pretty much red or yellow. It’s not there against a black or white background. I played a video with just white background and it doesn’t show. Why does this only appear with certain colors? I’ve tried pixel refresh multiple times. I also tried a hard reset by unplugging and holding down the power button.

The reason that the line is only visible with certain colors on the screen is that only one or two of the red, green, and blue subpixels is not functioning when this happens. The LG G2 has a white subpixel, so on an all-white screen, you would be less likely to see it. On a grey screen you might see it, but only faintly. On an all red, green, or blue screen, you would probably only see it if it was that color pixel not being actuated or if there was a problem with the color filtration process at some weird level. That’s all I know for certain.

Why is this happening? The fact that it is a straight line that moves suggests a problem with either the processor or something in power delivery to the TFT matrix or something similar. It is not screen damage; otherwise it wouldn’t move. What I don’t like is that this is a glitch – it’s not a hard failure. It’s like that gremlin in your car that may or may not show up when you take it to a mechanic.

My suggestion: Call LG’s service line and tell them that you have a warranty repair issue. The LG G2 has a five-year warranty, but it is broken into two parts; you get two years of parts and labor covered, and after that, only the panel itself is covered. Depending on when you bought it, the parts and labor portion could still be covered.

If not, LG still owes you a properly functioning TV. You may just have to pay a bit for it. My bet: They are more likely to replace the TV than to try to repair it. Regardless, call for a warranty service right now. That’s a failure and not a panel uniformity issue, and it qualifies for warranty repair.

Solved: The Sony click conundrum

Riley Young / Digital Trends

Next, there is an update from Eric H. who wrote in with a Sony OLED click conundrum. Eric reported that his Sony OLED TV would periodically make a clicking sound while it was off. We speculated that the cause could be a wide range of matters, such as the TV engaging its OLED pixel refresh cycle or the TV checking for an over-the-air update.

Eric writes: The issue is fixed! When using an Apple TV for all my media, the power supply would click on and off. I have been working on this and found that you have to delete any remote functions you may have paired under Remote & Devices in the Apple TV settings and leave Control Your TV on and select Auto under Volume Control with CEC enabled (Bravia Sync). I can only speak for the use of an Apple TV, but I heard it happens with an Xfinity cable box also.

There you go, folks. Eric’s problem is solved. The cause of the clicking has been determined and it has stopped. Hopefully that solution helps others as well.

April 13, 2025
You Asked: Blu-ray’s not dead yet and QD-OLED screen-cleaning safety
On today’s You Asked: How do you safely clean a QD-OLED screen? Should you still get a 4K Blu-ray player? And how to make sure your A/V receiver isn’t messing with your picture quality … again.

Best source signal?

LG G4 OLED Zeke Jones / Digital Trends

Jack writes: With your encouragement about how good modern sets are, I recently upgraded from a Panasonic plasma to an LG G4, and it’s spectacular. However, I’m wondering if I’m getting the best source signal into it. I have a Denon AVR X6300H. I run my cable box, Amazon Fire TV Cube, and an Oppo 203 through it and I wonder if the receiver is passing the highest signal generated by these sources? When I use the TV’s UI for sources like YouTube, Netflix, etc. they seem to look better.

First, congratulations on the TV upgrade. I’m always happy to hear from folks who are thrilled with the upgrade from plasma TVs, which were awesome in their day and are still lovely to watch. However, as I’ve said before, many of today’s TVs are objectively superior by many meaningful metrics, but perhaps not all metrics – I know plasma TV motion is still very enjoyable, but for contrast and color, we have leapt well ahead of plasma.

I covered this before, but I think it bears repeating: If you are passing a video signal through an A/V receiver, I highly recommend turning off the receiver’s video processing. This is far from the first time I’ve heard someone complain that their in-TV apps look better than their other sources. However, that’s not the only reason the signals coming through the receiver may not look as good.

If you go into your Denon’s video section in the user menu (I think you want Video Mode) you should be able to make a selection for “passthrough” or “off.” This will send an unaltered signal to your TV.

Some TVs do require you to enable enhanced color for HDR for specific HDMI ports. On your LG G4, go to Settings, then General, and then HDMI Deep Color. Make sure the HDMI port you’re using for your receiver – likely the eARC port – has HDMI Deep Color turned “on.” This will enable HDR, so any HDR signal sent through the receiver will be displayed in HDR – mostly HDR content from your Fire TV Cube. Then, make sure your picture settings are similar for that HDMI port to what they are for streaming. Remember: On LG OLEDs, you have to adjust the settings for each HDMI port, and HDMI picture settings are separate from streaming apps and Home Screen picture settings. (This is one of my few lingering complaints about LG TVs; otherwise, I love them.)

Backlight bleeding blues

Dhruva writes: How much backlight bleed is acceptable in an LCD panel? I just got a 75-inch Bravia 3 as I wanted to prioritize size over picture quality (letting go of OLED). When I received it, I noticed major backlight bleeding from the top right corner. I’m disappointed and just wanted to know how much of this issue is acceptable.

Sorry you’re having trouble. Nobody wants to be disappointed with a new TV purchase.

When I read that you had moved to a Bravia 3 from an OLED, my first thoughts were that this was a big move and of course you had a backlight complaint. That’s a big swing, but the photo you sent tells me the whole story.

(Note: If you think a photo might help me understand a problem, send it. A picture will almost always help, plus I never mind getting pics of your A/V gear.)

In your photo I noticed that the upper right hand corner of the TV is much different than the others. That’s not right. It could be a quality control issue, but more likely that corner took some kind of hit in shipping, unboxing, or setup.

This is not how the TV should perform – there’s something going on there that shouldn’t be. I suggest getting the set replaced. All corners should look the same.

Set it and forget it

Hisense U8N Zeke Jones / Digital Trends

RB writes: I recently purchased a Hisense 75U8N 2024 and I’m loving it. Dumb question? When switching from cable to streaming to Blu-ray do I have to manually switch back and forth from SDR to HDR? Is there any bad effect on my TV if I leave the setting on HDR?

This is a great question. When you enable deep color or HDR for an HDMI input, you aren’t at risk for messing up SDR content going to that HDR port. Generally, seeing SDR in an HDR container – or Rec. 709 in a DCI-P3 container or BT.2020 container – is no problem for TVs to handle. It’s when you somehow force an HDR signal onto a TV that is fixed at SDR that you get a washed-out, hypercolor mess. In short, you’re fine.
- Read our Hisense U8N review
OK to buy Blu-ray?

Norm from Canada writes: Last fall, I upgraded from a 55-inch TCL 6 series to a 65-inch LG C3. I absolutely love the OLED (my first). I want to add a Blu-ray player and wonder: Should I spend the extra money for the 4K player or would a regular player (along with the TV’s upscaling) be sufficient? Note: I do have a PS5 that can play my 4K discs but when I do, the TV defaults to Game mode instead of Movie or Filmmaker modes.

First I want to call attention to the fact that Sony has released a new 4K Blu-ray player, which is exciting.

With Best Buy pulling Blu-rays from stores, there has been talk of the player going away. Yet, discs are still being made, high-end brands like Magnetar are making new players, and now Sony has come out with a refreshed model of its UBP-X700. It’s called the UBP-X700K and is very similar to the version released in 2018, but with no internet connectivity or streaming apps.

The day the disc dies? I will be very sad. I know that high-quality streaming could deliver quality just as excellent as disc one day. However, I still like having the physical copy.

As good as it can look, upscaled 1080p Blu-ray is no substitute for a true 4K Blu-ray. If you’re going to buy a new player, buy a 4K Blu-ray player and 4K discs. The reason it’s so much better isn’t down to the resolution; it’s the higher bit-rate and bit depth. It’s so much cleaner, the HDR is excellent, and there’s little to no color banding. Also, a standalone player will have better overall picture quality than the PS5, although it’s not a night and day difference – some folks wouldn’t even notice.

However, you don’t have to put up with the PS5 forcing Game Mode on you. It shouldn’t happen when you’re not playing a game. If you want to have control over your Picture Mode, turn off Auto Low Latency Mode (ALLM) in the PS5’s menu. Go to Settings, navigate to Screen and Video, select Video Output, and turn ALLM off. Just a tip.

TV says “no” to video files

Maulik writes: My LG G2 OLED TV suddenly cannot detect any video files from any of my hard disks or thumb-drives (input to the USB port). It could before, and even my old TV can still access and play the video files. How could I fix this problem? Basically all the folders and pics show up, but the video files are non-existent when I try to browse them on the TV. When I plug the hard drive into a laptop or old TV, I can see and play the videos.

I’m afraid I have no idea what’s going on here. If I had to guess, I’d say a firmware or software update may have borked the onboard player. Clearly, the USB interface is still working, but the fact that the TV doesn’t recognize the video files tells me it suddenly doesn’t like the file type, and that points to an unintended consequence of an update. It’s possible the next over-the-air update will fix it.

Settings switcheroos

Gabriel writes: I’m reaching out because I’m experiencing an issue with controlling my home entertainment setup using a single remote. I have a 65-inch 2022 Samsung The Frame paired with an Apple TV 4K (3rd gen, 128GB). The only connection to the TV is the Apple TV, apart from my soundbar in the eARC input. While the Apple TV remote successfully turns both devices off, it’s problematic when powering them on. The Apple TV always turns on, but the TV sometimes switches to the Apple TV input as intended, and other times it switches to the TV source, as if there’s an antenna or cable connected – even though there isn’t. This forces me to use the Samsung remote to manually change the source, which defeats the purpose of a single remote control setup. I’ve tried adjusting settings on both the Apple TV and the TV without success. Is there any configuration or workaround that could resolve this issue, or is it simply inherent to the pairing of the Samsung The Wall and the Apple TV?

That is indeed frustrating, and while I can’t say with certainty what may be causing it, I have also experienced it. Recently, when testing a 2024 Samsung TV, I noticed that it kept returning to Samsung TV Plus and auto-playing content when I didn’t want it to. It happened about every fourth or fifth time – not every time – I turned on the TV. It might be baked into the TV to do this, but I’m not sure.

However, there’s good news. While recently testing out some Samsung 2025 TV models I noticed a new and obvious setting that lets you tell the TV exactly what to do when you turn it on. If it hasn’t rolled out to your TV via an update, try this out:

Go into Settings, then General, then Smart Features. Turn off “Autorun last app.” Then go back to the main Settings menu (which may be under General or Privacy). Find Start Screen Options and turn off “Start with Smart Hub Home.” Then see if the TV doesn’t always just turn on to your last-used input, which should be the Apple TV once you’ve selected it.

Clean your screen the right way

Cristian writes: Not so long ago I bought a 55-inch Samsung S90D OLED TV (all thanks to you) and I’ve been loving it. This is my first time owning an OLED TV and, in this case, one with an anti-glare coating. Fast forward to some time later when I noticed a fingerprint on my screen. I tried cleaning it using a microfiber towel gently on the screen. At first glance I thought I had cleaned it, but on closer inspection I saw that it left a blue smudge that I can’t seem to get rid of. Is there a safe way to clean this screen or should I just ignore it since I don’t want to cause some scratches? Any help is appreciated.

Similarly, Monir writes: I recently purchased a S90C 65″. I have many cats, which, unfortunately, like to sneeze in front of the screen. I went to clean a spot with alcohol – which I now understand was a bad idea – and that made the anti-reflective coating disappear from the cleaned area. Is there a way to fix this, perhaps by reapplying the affected area with anti-reflective coating with a spray or something?

I am sorry but I don’t know of any way to restore removed anti-reflective coating. Perhaps it hasn’t been removed and you’re seeing something similar to what Cristian noticed (blue smudge)?

And now a PSA: Folks, if you have a QD-OLED TV – and really, this goes for any TV – never, ever use alcohol or a glass cleaner with alcohol or ammonia when cleaning the screen. Different TV makers use different kinds of anti-glare and anti-reflection coatings, and there’s just too much risk of damaging the screen.

When cleaning a TV screen, all you need is distilled water and microfiber cloth, preferably low-lint. You can use regular water, but I don’t like anything with minerals in it.

If you have a heavily soiled screen – like gloops of matter – the best way to clean it is to spray it with warm water and let it sit to loosen up, then wipe it away. Then let it dry. Your screen will not be clean yet, just be free of debris. Then use a micro-mist of water, wipe gently, allow to dry, and use a dry cloth to buff it out.

See if that helps. I hope it does.
April 7, 2025
You Asked: Humidity hazards, too-close TVs, washed-out watching

On today’s You Asked: Can you have an OLED if you live in a high-humidity environment?

Too steamy for my TV?

LG G4 OLED Zeke Jones / Digital Trends

Sean, our island nit nerd ohana, writes: I recently purchased a G4, but I didn’t consider humidity. Like a lot of older homes on O’ahu, my house doesn’t have A/C. Should I be very concerned about the humid air in my house for my OLED’s longevity and would it be worth buying a dehumidifier for it?

First off, and I suppose anyone who saw my Golden Ear T66 speaker review may know a little about this, but I have a lot of family ties to O’ahu. My father’s parents served at Pearl Harbor, my grandmother was one of the military’s first female aircraft mechanics, my dad was born there, and my grandfather is resting at Punchbowl Cemetery, more properly known as the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific. I’ve spent a good amount of time in the islands and on cruise ships in high-humidity environments and I can tell you: If you haven’t experienced real humidity or have even been away from it for just two years, you forget. You might have memories, but your body forgets. Humidity can be a problem — not just for people, but for all organic things — and that includes organic light emitting diodes, which is what OLED TVs use to make a picture.

Humidity is not great for electronics in general, so already we’re starting at a disadvantage. OLED compounds are organic and they degrade faster in high humidity environments, not just because of the moisture but because of the accelerated oxidation.

However, an OLED TV isn’t going to die right away. You likely won’t notice a problem within a year, and perhaps two. After that, there are no guarantees because although you may not see the issues right away, the chemical breakdown is happening at a faster level than in lower humidity.

There are scientific papers published on this subject. Three Indian scientists published an extensive report about the effect of high humidity on OLED displays in the Journal of Electronics and Communication Engineering.

So, if you live in a high-humidity environment and don’t have climate control that regulates the humidity for the area where an OLED TV will be placed, get a dehumidifier. It’s a smart investment. As a bonus, the room will feel a bit cooler even if the temperature is the same as an adjacent, more humid room.

High heat can also negatively impact OLED displays, but we’re talking about long-term exposure to high, direct heat. That’s one of many reasons that putting an OLED outdoors is generally a bad idea. Direct sunlight, even on a mild day, can damage an OLED panel. Don’t worry so much about the heat in your home being a problem. The OLED won’t get hurt unless you’re hurting from the heat, and as long as the heat isn’t too high for too long, it should be fine. Direct sunlight for too long, though, isn’t great, but most OLEDs won’t get much inside a home as the sun moves throughout the day.

Possible light projector damage?

Alex Litvin / Unsplash

Here’s another OLED safety question from Paolo, who writes: Would a 6,000-lumen long-throw laser projector directed at a motorized floor-rising projector screen with 0.4mm acoustic perforations pose any risk of damage to a Sony A95K QD-OLED TV immediately behind it? Unsurprisingly, dots of light spill onto the panel while the projector and screen are in use, but then it’s completely bathed in projection light when the motorized screen isn’t fully erect (<30secs)

I have to be very careful here. I want to say that I will not be held liable should anything happen to your QD-OLED TV, as I have not taken measurements and don’t have hard data to support my theory. However, with that clearly disclosed, I can say: I highly doubt your OLED TV is at risk for damage.

First, the laser light source in your projector is rated not to exceed 250 milliwatts. These labels can sometimes be inaccurate, but I think we’re in the safety zone — even if the projector has a Class 3 rating and associated warning sticker.

Second, if the projector is a single-laser projector, then it is a blue laser with a phosphor mounted over it, so that it can project a very pure white light. That phosphor makes the light source diffuse right away. If it is a three-laser projector, that power is being spread out among red, green, and blue light sources. This means not all of that laser power is going out at full strength all the time, unless it is to make white. Even then I’m not worried.

Third, the light gets scattered a great deal both in the projector and as it travels toward your screen. That means the light beam will be fairly weak at any given single point on your OLED screen by the time it gets there and will only happen for 30 seconds or less. Then, by the time your projector screen is up, those pinpoints of light that get through the perforations will be really weak.

In short, no, I’m not worried about it. I think a 5mw laser pointer at point-blank range isn’t going to cause damage, so the likelihood your projector could do damage is slim to none.

Remote wrangling for two too-close TVs

John Higgins / Digital Trends

Anmar writes with another OLED question: We bought an LG C1 TV a couple of years ago, which we are very happy with, and your reviews were very helpful in making that decision. Because of this positive experience, I am thinking of buying the upcoming LG G5 for my parents. However, both TVs will be close to each other, and that could mean one remote might accidentally signal both TVs. Is this possible, and should I consider buying another brand, such as Samsung or Sony, to avoid this issue? What surprised me when I researched this issue was the lack of a consistent and simple solution.

You are correct to anticipate this potential problem — I experience it here in the studio all the time. I had the TCL QM7K set up, and when I pressed the power button on the remote, the QM891G 115-incher lit the room up like it was the holidays.

Many remotes pair to their televisions via Bluetooth, and some commands are executed only over Bluetooth. This includes LG OLEDs. However, most remotes still use infrared (IR) for basic functions — the power button most notably. Some remotes enable many functions over infrared, with Bluetooth as a backup. That way, if you go out of line of sight, you can still control the basics of a TV — even when the infrared signal can’t reach the TV’s infrared “eye.”

The biggest problem most people will likely have in this situation is powering on the TV. You may want one TV to turn on, but not the other. I can also hope that if the TVs are fairly close together and running at the same time, you probably want the same programming on each.

Regardless, here’s the best solution I have: Shield the remote’s infrared signal from the TV you do not want it to operate. Infrared signals are very basic and most manufacturers do not modulate them year to year. So, the power button on a remote for a C1 is likely to be the same IR code as the power button for a C4 or C5, even if the remote looks different and has different buttons.

Is this a high-tech, clever, sexy, and convenient way to handle the problem? No, but it works. There’s no better solution I’m aware of, and that’s probably because folks don’t often run into this problem.

Is it worth getting a different TV brand just to avoid this issue? I’ll leave that up to you. If you have two TVs from the same brand, you’ll need to shield the remote’s signal from the set you aren’t watching. If you buy another TV brand, you’ll need to get used to using a different style remote with a different on-screen interface.

New brand for better picture?

Digital Trends

Jan from Slovakia writes: I still love my old Panasonic GZ950 OLED from 2019, but this year I finally decided to upgrade. I am considering LG C4 or even C5. Will I see a significant upgrade in picture quality or do I have to aim for the flagship models? I am also worried about motion processing and color handling, since I hate the soap opera effect. Panasonic handles this perfectly, and also has a strange, special film-like feel that I like, which I struggle to see in other brands.

This is a tough one. The LG C5 would be notably brighter than the Panasonic you have, as it is notably brighter than the LG C4. The LG C4 may be a bit brighter than your GZ950 — I think your Panasonic was tested to produce up to 700 nits in a 10 percent window and about 165 nits full screen white. The LG C4 did about 800 nits in a 10 percent window and maybe slightly higher full screen.

While the LG C4 did do 1,000 nits in smaller areas of the screen, the LG C5 can do 1,000 nits at a 10 percent window. I haven’t tested it yet, but I think it will do a higher brightness full-field white than the LG C4, too, meaning it would be brighter for SDR content. LG has said the C5 sees a bit of a brightness boost compared to prior years.

Panasonic’s processing is indeed special, though. I like LG’s processing very much: It has come a long way and can look very cinematic. However, the best processing is reserved for the G series.

I want to ask: Why not consider another Panasonic OLED? Are they not available in your area? I think the Z85 would work well for you.

Will there be a significant uptick in picture quality? That depends on your sensitivity. I would say that unless you are unhappy with your current TV, don’t replace it yet. There will always be fun and fancy new TV tech available whenever the time is right for you to buy. Remember: Your OLED TV is awesome already. It can only get more awesome in small increments.

Washed-out watching

LG G4 OLED Douglas Murray / Digital Trends

Marc O’Hara writes: I have just purchased an LG G4 OLED, upgrading from a LG C2 OLED. The picture quality is a night-and-day difference, but I am having difficulty finding the sweet spot for picture settings. I typically like a bright and cool type of picture and typically have used the Vivid preset on my C2 and other TVs in my home. The Vivid setting is the closest to what I like for the G4, but it almost seems like the brightness is too much and washes out the color accuracy and detail. A lot of people rave about Filmmaker Mode, but that setting is just much too dim for my liking. Any advice on which picture settings on Vivid mode to adjust to fix this issue or any other recommendations? Also should I be enabling settings such as AI picture pro?

Some folks don’t want accuracy, and they don’t want accuracy at the expense of brightness, which is why many like the Vivid Mode. If people didn’t like Vivid Mode, TV brands wouldn’t put one in the TV. They would have a Store Mode preset and call it good.

The reason it looks washed out is because it is washed out. The TV is maxing out that white subpixel in your G4 to the point that it is washing out the color to achieve white brightness. Also, the blue color channel in the RGB balance that produces white is juiced way up.

Here’s what you can do. Select Vivid, but back down the brightness setting a bit so it isn’t so washed out. By backing down the brightness setting, you’re not losing all the TV’s advantages. You may find it easier on the eyes if you back down the blue channel in the 2-point white balance adjustment for the gain section. (Note: I normally don’t tell people to adjust the white balance in their TVs without being able to measure the results.) Gain is at the high, powerful side and bias is at the low luminance side. When you back down the blue a bit, you won’t meaningfully throw off the other colors because they are already about as off as they can be. Start with small adjustments and keep backing it down until you feel it is easier to watch. Start with the brightness setting first, though.

March 30, 2025
You Asked: Clarity on quantum dots, and why monitors can’t match TVs

On today’s You Asked: Clearing up confusion about quantum dots and what they do, and why PC monitors aren’t as good as TVs.

Quantum dot confusion

Samsung QN900C QLED 8K Samsung

Farid writes: With quantum dots TVs (LCD-based or OLED) and their higher colour volume compared to non-quantum dots TV, are you meant to see those extra colors that the creators want you to see? How much content that is mastered in those extreme colors am I missing if I don’t have a QD-OLED or QD-Mini LED TV? I’m planning to upgrade from my 2020 WOLED TV.

First, a clarification: Only some OLED TVs use quantum dots, and they use them in a very different way than LCD TVs.

LCD TVs currently use quantum dots because the LED or mini-LED backlights used in LCD TVs struggle to put out pure white light. Without pure white light, it’s hard for the color filter in an LCD TV to carve out a wide color gamut. Quantum dots take the pure blue that LEDs are good at producing and use that blue light energy to glow red and green. Combine the blue LED with the red and green glowing quantum dots, and you now have a very pure white light that an LCD panel’s color filter can carve into millions of colors.

There is a quantum dot OLED TV. In this case, the red and green quantum dots act at the pixel level, along with the glowing blue OLED. Here there’s no color filter — the blue, red, and green use additive color mixing — and there’s no subtractive, as in LCD, to achieve a wide gamut of colors. However, it’s important to note that WRGB OLEDs can also cover a very wide color gamut and don’t need quantum dots to do it. That being the case, your 2020 OLED TV is a wide color gamut TV. You aren’t missing anything.

Lots of content has color that exists beyond the capability of LCD TVs that don’t have quantum dots. Anything that is in HDR — and there is a lot of that content now — has color that goes beyond what a non-quantum dot TV can produce.

For the best and most enjoyable picture quality, yes, you want a quantum dot — or QD — LCD TV or an OLED TV. That doesn’t mean LCD TVs without quantum dots are bad, they just aren’t as good at producing enhanced color. And since quantum dots are making it into less expensive TVs, it’s a sign that TVs without quantum dots are going to be pretty cheap and generally won’t have great picture quality. Good picture quality? Yes, just not great.

Monitor or TV screen?

Luke Larsen / Digital Trends

Gavin writes: Hello I recently got a QD-OLED G6 Samsung monitor. I was wondering why we don’t see a ton of glossy screens on monitors and why some TVs actually work better as monitors for some people. For example, some of the reviews I saw on glossy monitors said they were not nearly as good as LG C4/G4, etc.
Another thing I wanted to ask: Why is the brightness on monitors so limited as opposed to the TV counterparts? You can have the same panel on a monitor and TV (similar cooling as well) and brightness is still an issue for the monitor.

Why aren’t there more monitors with glossy screens? Monitors often end up getting used near windows or in really bright environments where glare can be a major problem. If you sit right in front of a monitor at close range and there’s any light in the room, you will see a lot of your own reflection unless the screen has some kind of anti-reflection treatment. Also, any reflection off the surface will be brighter to the eye than a similar reflection seen from many feet away from the display.

That leads into the next question: Why do monitors tend to be less bright than TVs? Part of it has to do with the power supply. To get a monitor as bright as a TV would require a pretty beefy power supply — and it has been done — but having a big outboard power brick is a real hassle. Reviewers complain about that all the time, and I can tell you from personal experience that I don’t love it.

Another reason: Monitors are designed to be viewed close-up, so they don’t need to be as bright. Zeke and Chris will confirm this: A 1,000-nit, 10 percent window as viewed from a foot or two away is dramatically brighter than viewed from, say, eight feet away.

Monitors tend not to have picture processors; if they do, they’re pretty weak. To get a monitor looking as good as a TV, you’ll want to calibrate the video signal output. However, that’s pretty rare to do unless you’re in professional production because that picture processing adds lag and is not great for gaming.

No Dolby Vision, no problem?

Samsung S95D Zeke Jones / Digital Trends

Gabe writes: I know many cite the lack of support for DTS audio and Dolby Vision HD formats in QD-OLED Samsung TVs as reasons why they can’t possibly buy one for themselves — despite the TVs being good quality and highly rated in all other areas. Can’t you just work around the DTS issue if you run your Blu-ray player or streaming box through your AVR/soundbar setup to still get that audio format while using HDMI passthrough to get the video information to the TV from the AVR/soundbar? If that’s the case, why are people so hung up on this issue? As for Dolby Vision, I guess that’s not something you can work around since the TV is the one that has to have support for it, right? Or am I misunderstanding that concept and you can work around that too?

That’s correct: If your TV doesn’t support DTS — or maybe not all versions of it — then you can connect your sources directly to your soundbar, receiver, or processor.

When it comes to Dolby Vision, support has to be built into the TV. There’s no workaround. But if you don’t have Dolby Vision, it’s no longer a deal-breaker, in my opinion. I like Dolby Vision very much, and I think it does good things for lower performance TVs — it maps HDR content to look as good as it can on a TV with limited brightness capabilities. However, it only looks better when the creator took doing a Dolby Vision grade seriously; usually all the other HDR versions are serviced from that grade. Sometimes the Dolby Vision version isn’t as good as the HDR 10 or HDR 10+ version — it depends on the creator. Dolby Vision is a powerful tool, but, in the end, it’s only as good as the creator who wields it. It’s technically the most capable HDR format and ecosystem, but its capabilities are still only starting to get explored and nowhere close to being used to the max.

So, in this day and age, is a premium TV that lacks Dolby Vision support kind of silly? Yes, I think so. Is it a deal-breaker? Only if you want to vote with your wallet. In the end, a TV can look exceptional even without Dolby Vision, and Samsung has proved that to be true.

Boosting OLED brightness

LG G5 OLED TV John Higgins / Digital Trends

Markus from Austria writes: Last year’s top-of-the-line OLED panels (e.g. the LG G4) used MLA technology for boosting brightness and did a pretty good job at that. At CES this year, MLA was not a thing anymore. Instead, the latest OLED panel by LG (the G5, and used by Panasonic too) was an “RGB Tandem” panel. It doesn’t use anything like MLA. What about combining the RGB Tandem panel with MLA coating on top? Could that lead to an even brighter picture — or let’s say “ridiculously bright” image? Would that be possible? When I get the technical aspect right, MLA is a tiny, tiny lens array coated on top of a “regular” WOLED panel — so this lens coating should be possible on top of an RGB Tandem panel as well.

I suppose that MLA could be applied over the new 4-stack or Tandem OLED display technology. LG Display stepped away from MLA because it was inefficient, super expensive to implement, and a bit wasteful. I’m glad we got it for a while, but ultimately, I think MLA was a bridge-the-gap measure intended to clap back at QD-OLED while Tandem OLED for TVs finished up in development. With OLED TVs testing the 4,000-nit territory, the need for OLED to get much brighter is starting to disappear. It’s possible we could be nearing the end of the brightness wars among OLED TVs.

March 16, 2025